Wine News Review

Author: vinothekid

  • The Web’s latest wine buzz, 9/24/07

    Tune in to what top wine bloggers and experts are decanting into cyberspace with handpicked highlights of their latest and greatest.


    “The great wines of the world are expensive and often hard to find,” says Food & Wine. Okay, your first reaction may be, tell us something we didn’t know. This article, however, is well worth a read for what it goes on to say — namely, that it’s possible to find affordable wines that “echo the characteristics of the truly extraordinary.” If, of course, you look hard enough, which is what Ray Isle did for us in his piece aptly entitled Superstars & Super Steals. Nine different pairings are offered — with prices as low as $13 for the affordable-steals class and and as high as $114 for the extraordinaries — for types ranging from Alsace Riesling and white Burgundy to red Bordeaux and Oregon Pinot Noir.

    Another penny-pinching reason to drop by Food & Wine is an additional Isle report, this one focusing on an assortment of top Italian wines under $20. Isle wise-crackingly demands our pity for having to taste his way through 187 under-$20 Italian wines. An “exhausting” job, he declares, but eventually admits the assignment was “entirely enjoyable.” Most intriguing of his picks, perhaps, is the 2004 Librandi Cirò Rosso ($10) from the southern Italian region of Calabria. It’s made from the Gaglioppo grape variety, which is obscure virtually everywhere else in the world, Isle observes.

    Speaking of penny-pinching, Eric Asimov at The New York Times spotlights a variety of wines that the headline touts as Happiness for $10 or Less. In addition to providing a “Tasting Report: Structure and Personality, With a Small Price Tag” for 10 national and international picks, Asimov serves up some worthwhile insider factoids, such as this interesting peek into restaurant mentality: “The restaurant industry has a longstanding belief that the lowest-priced wine on the list will never sell. Nobody wants to be seen as cheap. But the second-lowest-priced wine, that’s the one people will gobble up.”

    There is absolutely nothing cheap about wines produced in the California vineyard sketched by Jay McInerney in House & Garden. This is the story about how the former CEO of Northrop Corporation decided to start a vineyard in what “may qualify as the most unlikely patch of vines in the world.” Or at least the ritziest — the Los Angeles suburb of Bel Air. But make no mistake, Moraga Vineyards is not a rich man’s plaything. We learn that the former sommelier at Alain Ducasse’s three-star restaurant in Paris, Stephane Colling, now the wine director at the Modern in New York, calls Moraga his favorite California winery.

    A different winemaker altogether is profiled by Jerry Shriver at USA TODAY: Randall Grahm, who officially calls himself “President for Life” of Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz, Calif. “But a more apt title would be ‘Supreme Seeker/Philosopher/Gadfly/Court Jester,’ ” Shriver observes. Now Grahm says he is rethinking his direction, heading into the realm of biodynamics. Grahm’s metamorphosis-in-progress, aka “existential crisis,” is a clicker.

  • Weekend wine list — experts’ picks: From crisp Viognier to Veltliner

    Comparing the picks: A survey of recent selections from top wine experts. Whenever there’s an option, I highlight the more-affordable wines, focusing on possible choices for weekend purchases. Check their websites for full descriptions and other picks:

    2006 Anakena Single Vineyard Viognier Rapel Valley, Chile:
    Natalie MacLean — “crisp, well-balanced Viognier,” her best value white. $15.95

    2005 Jekel Pinot Noir, Monterey County, Calif.:
    Jerry Shriver — “beautiful, soft and light sipper,” not to mention: “Love, love, love this price.” $15

    Casa Silva 2005 Carmenère Los Lingues Estate:
    Robert Parker — “superb aromatic array” with lots of structure. $7

    Domäne Wachau (Freie Weingärtner) ‘Terrassen; Federspiel’ 2006 (Wachau):
    Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher — “simply couldn’t believe” the price for for this “fascinating and fine” Austrian Grüner Veltliner. $11.99

    2006 J Pinot Gris (J Vineyards and Winery in the Russian River Valley of California’s Sonoma County):
    Edward Deitch — “lush and beautiful,” with notes of pear, white peach and strawberry. $20

    Gruet Brut NV New Mexico:
    Jancis Robinson — “refreshingly zesty and dry,” tastes as though it should cost at least twice its price. $13-$15

    2006 Cono Sur Casablanca Valley Sauvignon Blanc:
    Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg — “a perfect match of soft, creamy flavors, making it difficult to tell where the oyster ends and the wine begins.” $12

    2004 Benziger Family Winery Sonoma County Merlot:
    Olivia Wu — “easy to like and easy to drink … it hits all the right Merlot notes” $19

    Nothing tempting? Or maybe just not available at the local wine shop? Try browsing the latest wine reports from this custom collection of hundreds of news websites — filtered for bargains, continuously updated, and quick and easy to scan:

    • Reds (from Beaujolais to Zinfandel)
    • Whites (from Chablis to Sauvignon Blanc).

    To hit closer to home, try WNR’s Advanced Wine Search tool and see what wine finds local columnists and wine experts may be writing about in your area. Once there, just type in your city and state (within quotation marks, as in, “Napa, California”), to get results ranked by relevance.

    Or dig into some perennial standbys at SFGate.com’s Top 100 Wines of 2006, the Top 100 of 2006 list (PDF download) from Wine Spectator and the list of 50 Wines You Can Always Trust from Food & Wine.

    Attracted to a bottle that’s advertised in the local paper or sitting on the local wine store shelf?

    Do a little background research with Wine Enthusiast’s free, searchable Wine Buying Guide—either with a specific name or by types and price. For a little extra info, try Robert Parker’s handy Vintage Chart. Or see what the online wine community says about it with the search tools at cork’d, snooth or Wine Log.

    Once you’ve selected the wine, you naturally want to decide what to eat with it. For some savvy guidance, try Natalie MacLean’s Wine & Food Matcher, which boasts a database of 360,000 wine-food pairings.

    The Web is about community. So take a moment to comment about your experience with a particular wine — to help steer others to or away from it. And of course, have a great weekend!

  • Non-guilty pleasures dept: Evidence of wine’s health benefits mounts

    This is the story about how a young doctor learned an amusing lesson from a patient, who would be me.

    It happened several years ago, when I went for an annual checkup. My regular doctor was busy, so a young assistant saw me. Before the breathing and the stethoscoping started, we sat together for the usual health-related Q&A. The conversation got interesting when we came to the part about what substances I ingest. It went something like this:

    Doctor: Do you take any illegal drugs?

    Me: No.

    Doctor: Do you drink alcohol?

    Me: Yes.

    At that point, he stopped writing on his clipboard and looked at me inquisitively.

    Me: I like to drink wine with dinner. I guess I picked that up from my father.

    Doctor: How is your father?

    Me: He’s dead.

    Doctor (looking like he was ready to pounce): And how old was he?

    Me: Ninety-three.

    Realizing there was little to pounce on, the doctor said something akin to, “Oh,” and then proceeded to the remaining questions.

    I can’t say whether or not wine contributed to my father’s longevity. But in the years that have followed that medical checkup, there have been a variety of reports about wine’s health benefits, leading me to suspect the young doctor probably doesn’t look so askance any more when a patient admits to wine drinking.

    The evidence of wine’s salutary effect continues to mount.

    Hippocrates, father of medicine, as envisioned by a Byzantine artist.
    Hippocrates, father of medicine, as envisioned by a Byzantine artist.


    From: University of Virginia Health Sciences Library

    The latest report is a review published today of the book “The Red Wine Diet” by scientist Roger Corder, “who insists that drinking red wine regularly is good for just about everything that might ail you, including heart disease, diabetes and dementia.”

    A cardiovascular expert and professor of therapeutics at London’s William Harvey Research Institute, Corder doesn’t deny the destructiveness of alcohol abuse. But he extols the value of moderate wine use, drawing on his own research and historical documentation, including writings of the likes of the 5th century B.C. Greek physician Hippocrates, who prescribed wine as an antiseptic and remedy for other ailments.

    Corder, according to the report, even recommends specific wines, including: “Malbec Riserva from Altos Las Hormigas in Argentina, Chateau Montaiguillon and especially those French wines made with tannat grapes in Madiran. The best U.S. wines rated are Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Reserve from California and Matthew Cellars Red from Washington state.”

    Earlier this month, Britain’s Times Online reported that patients suffering from a rare disease would be among the first to try a new drug based on the “magic ingredient” in red wine.

    The chemical “could lead to a whole family of new drugs with powerful effects against the diseases of ageing,” the report said, adding that a version of the chemical is being tried in India for use against diabetes, “and newer versions hundreds of times more powerful are in the pipeline.”

    In February, Dutch researchers told the American Heart Association’s 47th Annual Conference on Cardiovascular Disease Epidemiology and Prevention that “drinking a little alcohol every day, especially wine, may be associated with an increase in life expectancy,” according to the meeting reports

    “The researchers found that a light intake of alcohol (on average less than one glass per day) was associated with a lower rate of cardiovascular death and death from all causes. When compared to spirits and beer, consumption of small amounts of wine, about a half a glass a day, was associated with the lowest levels of all-cause and cardiovascular deaths.”

    Who knows whether other findings someday will rebut these reports? But for the time being at least, you shouldn’t feel intimidated telling your physician about your fondness for wine. He may even approve.

     

  • Weekend wine list — experts’ picks: From Cotes du Rhone to Mendocino

    Comparing the faves: A survey of recent selections from respected wine experts. Whenever there’s an option, I highlight their more-affordable picks. Check out their websites for background and other picks:

    2006 Anakena Single Vineyard Viognier Rapel Valley, Chile:
    Natalie MacLean dubs it the best value among her recent white-wine selections, a “gorgeous Viognier!” $15.95

    2005 Jean-Luc Colombo Les Abeilles Cotes du Rhone:
    Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg describe this as slightly lighter than California pinot noir, with “more earthiness than fruit.” $10

    Saint André de Figuière “Cuvée Valerie” Côtes de Provence 2006:
    Dave McIntyre finds in it a “sunny, rejuvenating acidity and slight, enticingly herbaceous flavor.” $14

    2006 Husch Sauvignon Blanc, Mendocino, Calif.:
    Jerry Shriver describes it as “crisp and focused,” with melon and grapefruit flavors that should make it “perfect for Indian summer sipping.” About $13

    2006 Castello Banfi San Angelo Pinot Grigio:
    Peter M. Gianotti calls it a “refreshing Tuscan, with citrus notes.” $20

    Nothing tempting? Or just not available at the local wine shop?

    Dig into some perennial standbys at SFGate.com’s Top 100 Wines of 2006, the Top 100 of 2006 list (PDF download) from Wine Spectator and the list of 50 Wines You Can Always Trust from Food & Wine.

    Attracted to a bottle that’s advertised in the local paper or sitting on the local wine store shelf?

    Do a little background research with Wine Enthusiast’s free, searchable Wine Buying Guide—either with a specific name or by types and price. For a little extra info, try Robert Parker’s handy Vintage Chart. Or see what the online wine community says about it with the search tools at cork’d, snooth or Wine Log.

    Once you’ve selected the wine, you naturally want to decide what to eat with it. For some savvy guidance, try Natalie MacLean’s Wine & Food Matcher, which boasts a database of 360,000 wine-food pairings.

    Feel free to share your experiences. And of course, enjoy!

     

  • Web sips: Wine headlines, 9/13/07

    Handpicked stories from across the Web…

    Have wine experts forgotten the virtues of white wine?
    Wine diva Jancis Robinson declares: “Dry white wine can be every bit as ‘serious’ as red.” Makes you thirsty just reading about it.

    French launch carton of wine with a straw
    Sacré bleu! Will it take this junk-food approach to win over France’s declining wine youth market? “…more amusing,” declares a straw-enamored 21-year-old Parisian.

    No wine? Wine not?
    And yet stateside, wine is making a comeback among college students. “I think it’s more social because you’re not down chugging beer, you’re able to sip,” says an observant Tulsa, Okla., college junior.

    Snobless Sipping Where a Glassful Is Just a Glassful
    Pay an intoxicating visit to San Francisco’s eclectic wine-bar scene.

    Napa couple shares wine profits with the children of fallen soldiers
    “No matter how you feel about the war (in Iraq), it’s about the kids.”

    Patterning itself after the home of France’s classic Pinot Noir, the Willamette Valley is becoming a wine country destination unto itself
    If this mouth-watering review of wines and wineries doesn’t get you packing to Oregon, nothing will.

    Montepulciano high and low
    The 30 Second Wine Advisor explains the differences in these far-apart Italian reds. Valuable info next time you’ve got a rib-eye ready for the barbecue.

    Thirsty for more news? Follow up this serving of new and notable headlines by digging into continuously updated feeds from national and international news outlets: The focus is on red and white wine bargains.